25 June 2016

After a stormy and relatively cool night (coldest of our trip so far), we set about packing our bikes for the short ride through to Kon Tum.

The roads were still fairly damp from the previous night’s storms, and a fair amount of debris in the corners. As we swung out of town and on to a smaller back road (QL24), the level of debris increased significantly, with a small tree laying across the road, meaning we had to ride round it on the dirt. The views were absolutely amazing looking down in to the valleys as we weaved along the windy back road. The clouds were still hovering in the trees and gulleys above us, making for some spectacular sights.

As we dropped down to the valley floor we entered a relatively small village (Huyen Kon Ray) which was bustling with early morning market activities. We stopped for a quick map check and decided to have a bite of breakfast, as it may be a few hours before Kon Tum in the wet. We stopped at a small stall at the side of road and were invited inside by the friendly lady owner. After a few minutes of discussion and nodding and pointing she set about making up our breakfasts. Noodles and the usual combination of broth, vegetables and meats went in, along with a black jelly looking substance. When we started to eat the food, it became obvious this was some form of blood based addition similar in flavour to a black pudding, but broke up in the heat of the noodle soup. A hearty and slightly unusual breakfast, but it set us up for the day.

As we set off after breakfast, there are a lot of dark rain clouds in the hills towards where we are heading. We set off at a gentle cruise and the light showers start. Then the heavens opened and a torrential downpour started. We were on a wide open section of road when it hit, so had to ride on a bit through it until we got to a small rubber tree plantation with some cover. We pulled in and took shelter as the massive storm passed over. Took the chance to dig out our waterproof ponchos and also cover the top bags in plastic sheets to keep everything dry.

After 15 to 20 minutes the rain subsided and we took our chance to get back on the road. The rubber plantations continued along the side of the road almost all the way to the outskirts of Kon Tum. On the whole the road had been in excellent condition for the ride, with the exception of the very outskirts of Kon Tum where the road was in terrible condition. Deep mud, potholes and ruts, making it treacherous to pass. Shortly after this muddy section we were presented with the helpful sign post that showed 4 exits on a junction with 5 roads, and 3 of the 4 exits were signed to “Kon Tum 3km”. So we took a gamble and opted for the middle exit to Kon Tum. This road slowly wound its way down hill through city blocks to the centre of town. After a quick ride around the centre, we stopped in for a coffee and egg pudding and looked for places to stay for the night. We opted for a small hotel just outside the centre and headed there to check in. The Konklur hotel turned out to be an excellent option, with a nice large room and comfy bed in a nice small hotel complex, and a bargain at only US $14 per night.

After a bit of chill out time and getting changed from the wet ride in to town, we decided to go get the bikes serviced. 2 km ride in to town and then a scoot around the back streets looking for a well equipped looking Xe May. We found one just off the Main Street near the markets and proceeded to point out to the mechanic that we needed oil changed, chains tightening and oiled and a basic check over including a replacement bolt for Traceys fork clamp. As the mechanics set about the bikes, we crossed the road for a refreshing drink at a local stall. Whilst there we got chatting to a couple of slightly older local guys who invited us to join them at their table. They very kindly offered to buy us our drinks and we changed away in English. They then invited their kids across and all of us sat for about an hour talking. The kids spoke fantastic English and we’re obviously enjoying practicing their language skills. When it came time to pick up the bikes and head off, our new friends invited us to join them for breakfast the following morning (at 7:30 am at a local cafe). We agreed, and went across to pick up the bikes. At that point the head mechanic refused to take any money from us at all for the two bikes service. Exceptional kindness and generosity from our new friends. We said our goodbyes and set off, just as the heavens opened and a torrential downpour started.

After two blocks we were completely drenched, so went in search of a cafe that had been recommended by Jamie and Bec. Eva cafe wasn’t too easy to find, but once there it’s a beautiful place for a break. Set in a very ornate garden with clever lighting and lots of wood carving. We took our seats and spent some time planning the next couple of days whilst enjoying ginger tea and a banh mi sandwich. The rain was still bucketing down, and we were joined by a very large frog who was looking to escape the rain.

Eva Cafe

As a small break in the rain showers came, we took the chance to make a dash for our hotel. Stopping off at the Vin Mart supermarket in the centre of town for some supplies, then at a small side of road stall for some fresh mangoes and lychees, before an early night in the hotel listening to the pouring rain outside. The rain was so heavy at times that the drains in the hotel room were bubbling and gurgling.

Full days route here:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1227673947