Destinations

Ride day 24: Buôn Ma Thuột loop

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July 28, 2016

1 July 2016

After an awesome nights sleep in the coffee tour resort, we grabbed a leisurely breakfast in the resort before heading out for a sightseeing day.

Search for Rice Paper Village

First on the hit list for the day was to try and find the local rice paper village we had read about. The directions were relatively vague, leading us to a turn off from the AH17 heading due west on backroads with the description that “you’ll know you’re at the rice paper village when you get there”.

Well, we rode all around the backroads of the area and saw some fantastic local wooden long houses, men with goats on their motorbikes and potholes galore; but no sign of the rice paper village and no plooms of smoke to indicate it was anywhere in the area. Given the blog that referenced it was approaching 10 years old, we assumed it has long since sadly disappeared. The roads and villages around the area are however well worth riding through.

Buôn Ma Thuột

Rather than ride back the same way, we instead opted to loop back a different way to take in more of the local villages. The roads continued to be full of potholes and were relatively slow riding, but some scenic villages along the way. At the main junction of the road back in to town an open backed truck drove past. As they saw us on our motorbikes the teenagers in uniforms started cheering, a slightly strange but fun sight to wave to them and get huge applause.

Back in to Buon Ma Thuot we scooted around the back streets following the online directions to find a Castrol bike point to get a quick service done. Unfortunately, and for the second time on the day, the service station was no longer there. We opt then instead to head towards the town centre and find a suitable garage. Whilst winding our way back out of the back streets I had the pleasure of a local kid deciding to spin his bike round on the kick stand right as I passed. Given the condition of the road he left me nowhere to go and managed to knock my foot into the red hot engine block – dickhead. My language at the time was considerably worse!

After a short ride around the city centre we manage to find a garage on a corner in town that looked relatively well equipped with air lines etc, so we stop off and talk (in sign language) with the mechanic about what we need done. In this instance it was the usual oil change and chain tighten / oil, along with both headsets needing tightened and also the rear brake pads on Traceys hub brakes needing replaced and slightly serviced to remove the squealing. It was an incredibly hot day and we were sat in the sun whilst the repairs were taking place. Tracey headed off to get some drinks whilst I assisted the mechanic with the headset repairs on the bikes. 45 minutes and 330,000VND ($15 USD) later and both bikes were sorted.

Lak Lake

As we head out of town towards Lak lake, we fill the tanks up ready for the round trip. The QL27 heading south is an amazing scenic road, with fantastic rocky outcrops and awesome views of mountains and plains. We take a short stop on the way south to snack on crisps before heading the rest of the way to the lake, taking in the sights on the way.

On arriving at Lak Lake we’re slightly unsure on where exactly to go, so take a quick stop off to get an excellent local coffee and check the maps. We then take a very small backroad past a relatively quiet market to arrive at the lake shore. A short ride around the lakeside, and we are suddenly blown away to see 4 elephants at the side of the road. Whilst we knew there were domesticated elephants in the area, we didn’t know we were this close to them. Whilst we are admiring the elephants and still in complete awe, a young woman approaches us and asks if we want to take a ride. We both clearly do, and are discussing what to do, whilst we are given the price (700,000 VND / $35). We continue to discuss what to do, at which point the woman appears to haggle with herself and offer us 550,000 VND / $25, so we immediately agree and park up the bikes.

We’re taken over to meet our elephant and his keeper, and then given hats to protect us from the intense sun, and we climb aboard for our hours ride on this amazing animal. He walks us around the lake shore for the first 25 minutes, and then….. Steps down a slope that is so steep I’m convinced we are going to fall out forwards, and climbs into the water. Our elephant then proceeds to walk us across the lake. He is clearly enjoying the cool water and also very relaxed. So much so in fact that he pauses to take a quick dump before continuing. Still in disbelief that we are actually high up on this beautiful elephant, we watch a local fishing with a small hand cast net as we finish our lake crossing and climb back up an equally ridiculously steep slope and back to the base. What an amazing experience!
After arriving back at the elephant base, we take a bit of time to chill out and have an ice cream and a cold drink. The place itself has filled up with a load of Russian tourists who are preparing themselves (loudly) for their elephant rides.

Whilst chilling out, we took time to check out the massive Python they had at the base. She was quite active moving around. I also took the time to Skype my brother and my nieces and nephew, who loved seeing the elephants, and Darragh loved the snake.

Roadside snacks

Python!

Back to Buôn Ma Thuột

After a final cheerio to the elephants we started off on our ride back to Buôn Ma Thuột. Heading out of Lak Lake we encounter a group of 7 young European backpackers also riding north, mainly in Honda Wins.

We have a quick chat then watch as they race off far too fast for the road. Sure enough we catch up to them less than 2km later. One of them has crashed after swerving to avoid a dog at speed. The bike is fairly battered up as is the rider – but out of stupid bravado he aggressively refuses any help. We stop and chat to the group for a while and again offer help to the cut and cruised rider who this time reluctantly accepts some first aid. His bike, whilst still just about rideable, is in a bad way. As he takes it for a test ride I note the rear wheel is tracking at a precarious angle. One of his friends points out its been that way since HCM. These guys are obviously doing it on a budget and are taking big risks. Novice riders with bad condition bikes, limited skill and too much testosterone sounds as if it has lead all but one of them to crash numerous times in their first two days of riding. We say our goodbyes to the group and start to slowly make our way back the 50km to our hotel in the beautiful dusk light.

It’s only a matter of 5km up the road and the backpacker group race on past waving and beeping, then I notice Tracey has put her front light on (meaning she needs to stop). As i stop and she pulls up next to me, she tells me her bike is cutting out. Sounds a similar issue to what we had in Da Nang, but unfortunately nothing on this road for about 30-40km. So we swap bikes in the hope I can nurse it home. I manage the next 30km or so with intermittent throttle problems and having to coach the bike on throttle and clutching to keep her from stalling out. As we approach the outskirts to Buôn Ma Thuột, increased traffic on road sees the problem increase and eventually the inevitable stall happens at a major intersection. I walk the bike off the road to the side and give her some time before attempting to finish the ride for the day.

As we head towards our hotel we notice a huge supermarket, actually turns out to be a cash and carry. We park up at the Metro and decide to pick up some essentials. On the way in we’re told it’s a members only shop, but then they decide to let us in without membership. We grab a bunch of essentials and none essentials – decent wine, bungee cords and spray lube for the bikes and pay up. As we leave the supermarket it has very suddenly got completely dark. The ride back to hotel on back streets becomes a bit of a mission with severely potholed roads and puddles, heavy traffic and a plague of moths covering about a 200 metre stretch. Visors down and mouths closed!

Goat Dinner

Once back at the hotel we both grab a quick shower then decide to go local for food. A short walk around the corner and we find a nice looking busy local food hall. We are welcomed in to the only available table and shown the menu. Everything on the menu is goat meat, and we opt for a couple of dishes on recommendation from our waitress. Then the carnage begins, as guys from around the restaurant join us briefly at our table to say hello and cheers me with their beers. In the first 15 minutes in the restaurant I’ve already drunk 3 beers. A very friendly crowd, and, as it turned out – amazingly tasty food! Following dinner, we took a walk back to the hotel and had a couple of beers before heading to bed.