12 May 2016

Hanoi to Nghia Lo was the plan – following the rough route laid out by wwwv.nomadasaurus.com. We checked out of our Hanoi hotel at 9:30am and rode the short distance up to Style Motorbikes to collect the registration papers and number plates for our new Detech Honda Win 125’s. We’d picked the actual bikes up a few days earlier and done 100km or so in and around Hanoi sightseeing and getting used to the bikes (see ‘Ahoy Hanoi!’ post) We had a good chat with Johnny and Thanh at Style getting tips on mounting our luggage, mechanics en route and other useful tips. Said our Cheerios and set off at 10:30.

Leaving Hanoi
The ride out of Hanoi was a hectic one. First of all it took a bit of getting used to the new handling charachteristics of the bikes with 20kg of luggage on the back of each. A quick fuel stop to make sure the major and reserve tanks were full, and then in to the traffic. Scooters and motorbikes galore, but it’s the beeping buses, trucks and taxis that you really need to watch for.
The first 15 km was wheel to wheel mayhem, 2nd gear, and unbelievably noisy!! A quick little overtake up the pavement following a bunch of locals and we were heading towards clearer roads.
The traffic continued to be relatively heavy a long way beyond the official city limits, but the speed of the traffic had notably increased. Quite a lot of dirt and dust on the roads here; and the occasional massive hidden pothole to catch out those not paying attention. A quick stop at the roadside to buy a Coke and a Sprite with ice, and take a break off the bike.
We then continued our ride up in to the foothills, and started to see the changes coming in the scenery. Road conditions very good, with two lane tarmac roads and limited potholes. Beginning to see the tea plantations and small farms at the sides of the road, as well as corn plantations and a lot of activity in the fields.
We rolled in to a small village not shown on our map and decided to take the chance for a cup of local tea before hitting the road again. Heading on out of the village we started to climb, and saw forests taking the place of the tea plantations. The road became much more twisty, and a light rain shower started. Coming round a left hand corner we come across a truck that had freshly flipped over in the road. A few locals had gathered to watch the scenes. A reminder of the potential hazards on these country roads.

Tracey by the tipped over truck

The next 5 or so km was covered with considerable extra caution whilst the roads were still wet and slippery. The traffic on the roads has got very quiet except for local traffic (both vehicular and animal in nature – the Buffalo walking up the road on their own at their own slow pace).
By this point we’d reached the time where we were tiring for the day, but through all the villages and towns passed not one hotel had been spotted. It’s approaching 6.00 p.m. as we enter Huyen vān Chán (10km short of Nghia Lo) and we see a sign for a hotel in 300m on the right, and it’s decided we’re staying there.
We ride up the rough dusty dirt road to the hotel. There’s no apparent sign it’s open or indeed a hotel. Then a smiling man walks out to greet us. Through a combination of signs and gestures we communicate that we want a room for the night. The man takes us up to the top floor to check the room over (clean, two beds, bathroom), and we agree on a price of 200k VND (9 USD) for the night. We return to the bikes, ride them round the back and lock them up, then unload and carry our bags to the room. We’re done!

View from hotel room

Absolutely exhausted, we shower and go straight to bed. A storm is building outside, with rumbles of thunder, lightning flashes and heavy rain. Suddenly, all the power drops out. We then hear a knocking at the door in the pitch black. Making our way to the door, there’s the friendly man from earlier with a kids night light. He hands it across and makes his way back in to the darkness.
Time to sleep.

Full detailed route : Hanoi to Huyen vān Chán

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1165051940