Ride day 37: Kampot to Kep Loop
3 August 2016
Such a fantastic nights sleep in the comfy bed of Kampot Manor Guest House. So comfy in fact, that we decide to stay another night. So after breakfast on the balcony, we have to move rooms before heading out for the day.
David (the owner) recommends a route along dirt track out of Kampot towards the new ferry port. We head off in this direction along the river side all the way to the dead end of the road. Assuming we have taken a wrong turn somewhere, we turn around and head back towards the main road towards Kep. The road that links us back up to the main highway takes us a long a graded gravel track through the salt pans, with workers loading salt in to the back of large lorries from the massive salt stores.
On to the main road to Kep, and there are lots of scooters with trailers full of people travelling along the road. The bikes sound as if they are on their last legs with that much weight behind them.
At the Roundabout with the white horse we turn right on to a very wide road, but only the central one car width is paved, the rest is red dirt. After 2km the road becomes completely unpaved 6-8 lane road, very dusty and a fair few potholes. This continues for a few kilometres before turning in to a fully paved road all the way to the main Kep roundabout.
We want to turn right at the roundabout towards the crab market and beach, but for the second time in two days the prime minister beat us to it, and the road is closed whilst he lunches at a local restaurant.
We instead head straight in to the front, check out the mermaid statue, and then take a place at one of the local Cafes for lunch. We were hoping to have the local speciality of crab, however it seems our restaurant had run out.
After a lunch of fried rice and fried noodles, we explore a bit further around the headland, taking in the blue crab statue and riding around the coast for a few kilometres.
On our way back, the prime minister had left, so we took a run down past the crab markets and beach front. Sadly the crab markets these days look more of a tourist market than a local market.
Along the front some big waves were being blown in and braking over the shore in places. As we look around it looks as though the weather is about to turn wet again.
We quickly race back to Kampot and make it before the weather strikes. We head to the Ecran Film house to rent a private room and watch the classic film the Killing Fields. A great experience, our very own mini cinema, snacks from the local market and a few hours learning some more of the gruesome modern history of Cambodia.
After the film we return to Pepe and the Viking Cafe where we had eaten the day before. Sadly they are closed for food today, but we still stop for a few refreshing drinks and to play with the cat. We stay long enough to watch the fishing boats sailing out towards dusk, and then head just up the road to Rikitikitavi for a fantastic dinner on the balcony of Lok Lak and chicken with cashew nuts. An awesome meal as the sun starts to go down, then a ride back to Kampot Manor over the illuminated bridge just as the sun sets.
Full days route here: